Showing posts with label black coat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label black coat. Show all posts

Friday, August 6, 2010

Teena's Black, Red and White Winter Tailored Coat: A one- of a kind design!



A few weeks ago, I received an order for one of my Winter Tailored Coat's. I met Teena at The Rocks Markets, where I took her measurements, then we discussed colours. We agreed on a palette of black and red with a hint of white. Since Teena lived in Perth, and I lived in Sydney, the fabric samples to were posted to Teena, and once approved, the coat became a reality!

The photos below show some of the steps taken to create this beautiful hand made, one of a kind coat...


Cutting out the Red silk lining



Cutting out the black wool


Sewing the black wool pieces together (above), and sewing the red wool and cotton interlining together. I add interlining to all of my coats to give it extra warmth and durability.



I decided to add white/ivory piping to the design, as it really made the red and black contrast and stand out even further. It gave the colours a dramatic edge and oomph! I made the piping from some cotton roping and ivory silk, cut on the bias.




As you can see above, the piping really makes the red and black stand out! I like it how it also makes a very graphic and almost pop art look to the coat. This is a photo of the sleeve.

Below, the inside of the coat, where the side pocket sits.




Above, the finished side seam- including the pocket.


Sewing the white piping to the red wool, before it is attached to the black wool.


Above and below, creating red piping for the button holes. I decided to use red piping in this case, as the buttons are already black and white, and I thought if I used white piping, there would be too much white in that area, and the buttons would not stand out enough.



Creating the welt button holes. I always make big stitching lines to guide me, then I sew in place the piping. Just to create this part of the button holes takes me around 90 minutes for about 5 button holes- then I still need to hand stitch the seam allowance of the piping down, and finish off the under side of the button holes. A very time consuming exercise, but the finished product is well worth it!


Sewing the interfacing to the bottom of the red wool- this is for the hem, and it makes it sit nicely every time you wear it!



I apply the fur collar to the lining, so I need to hand stitch the collar seam allowance down, otherwise it will not sit flat.


A little extra added detail: I decorated the lining with white embroidery!


And the finished product!....


And a few lovely comments from the customer:

" The coat has arrived and it is absolutely perfect. It is beautifully made and your attention to detail is amazing. I really am thrilled with it. " from Teena in Perth


I am very happy with the finish of this coat- it was very hard sending it off- as I really wanted to keep it for myself!.... Luckily, it wasn't made to fit me!





Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Sharon's Black and Grey Winter Coat. Part 1: The Making of...

The following photos show the step-by-step making of a Penelope Red Winter Coat. This coat was handmade from two contrasting fabrics: 1. A 100% wool black spotted jacquard and 2. a wool/elastane blend cream and black woven twill (from a distance it looks grey).

This is a made to measure garment, and the lady (Sharon) who now owns it, picked it up this past weekend. I was so happy with the fit on Sharon- it looked fantastic on her! I am hoping to receive some photos from Sharon in the coming weeks, so that will be part 2...



First I had to grade the pattern from a size 10, to the correct size.



Next, I altered that pattern to suit Sharon's body shape. I created a toile (prototype) which she tried on before commencing the final garment.


Above, cutting out the wool jacquard, and below, cutting out the fur trim.



I used a cotton voile to interline ALL pieces of the coat. This creates a warmer coat, as well as gives the coat more durability and better shape.


Above and below, piecing the sleeve together.




Above, I am sewing the centre front and side front together.


All seams are trimmed, and clipped, then pressed open.


After this, I hand sew the seams open- using a big stitch. Since the seams and fabric gets quite thick, it is important that they all lie flat, and perfect. It also makes the seams durable for longer.




Above, sewing the interfacing to the interlining.



Before I attach the sleeves, I then create the welt button holes down the centre front.


Above, the inside of the button hole. Below, the outside the button hole.




To make sure that the button hole and the binded cording stay in place and all seams lie flat, I then hand sew the binding edges down to the interfacing.


Inside of the coat, where the pocket is sewn.


The coat collar is made from wool, fur and a very thick interfacing.


The collar seams allowances are also hand sewn down.


After attaching the sleeves, I apply a shoulder pad and sleeve head roll to the shoulder area.



Once the outer layers of the coat are created, I then attach the lining.


Above is a photo of the coat before I had completed it- as I still had quite a bit of hand sewing to go to finish it off. I will hopefully have more photos to add to part 2 soon!