The following photos show the step-by-step making of a Penelope Red Winter Coat. This coat was handmade from two contrasting fabrics: 1. A 100% wool black spotted jacquard and 2. a wool/elastane blend cream and black woven twill (from a distance it looks grey).
This is a made to measure garment, and the lady (Sharon) who now owns it, picked it up this past weekend. I was so happy with the fit on Sharon- it looked fantastic on her! I am hoping to receive some photos from Sharon in the coming weeks, so that will be part 2...
First I had to grade the pattern from a size 10, to the correct size.
Next, I altered that pattern to suit Sharon's body shape. I created a toile (prototype) which she tried on before commencing the final garment.
Above, cutting out the wool jacquard, and below, cutting out the fur trim.
I used a cotton voile to interline ALL pieces of the coat. This creates a warmer coat, as well as gives the coat more durability and better shape.
Above and below, piecing the sleeve together.
Above, I am sewing the centre front and side front together.
All seams are trimmed, and clipped, then pressed open.
After this, I hand sew the seams open- using a big stitch. Since the seams and fabric gets quite thick, it is important that they all lie flat, and perfect. It also makes the seams durable for longer.
Above, sewing the interfacing to the interlining.
Before I attach the sleeves, I then create the welt button holes down the centre front.
Above, the inside of the button hole. Below, the outside the button hole.
To make sure that the button hole and the binded cording stay in place and all seams lie flat, I then hand sew the binding edges down to the interfacing.
Inside of the coat, where the pocket is sewn.
The coat collar is made from wool, fur and a very thick interfacing.
The collar seams allowances are also hand sewn down.
After attaching the sleeves, I apply a shoulder pad and sleeve head roll to the shoulder area.
Once the outer layers of the coat are created, I then attach the lining.
Above is a photo of the coat before I had completed it- as I still had quite a bit of hand sewing to go to finish it off. I will hopefully have more photos to add to part 2 soon!